![]() If iris foliage is hit with heavy frost, remove and destroy it to eliminate borer eggs.After a hard frost in the fall, cut foliage back hard, remove any foliage that appears spotted or yellowed, and dispose of all debris in the trash.Only prune off brown leaf tips, if desired. The plant’s foliage carries on with photosynthesis and generates energy for next year’s growth and flowers. After blooming is finished, cut flower stems down to their base to discourage rhizome rot, but do NOT trim the iris’ leaves.Deadhead (remove spent blooms) consistently. Bearded Irises flower sequentially on buds spaced along the stems.Taller irises may need staking or they will fall over.If they’re covered with soil or crowded by other plants, they’ll rot. Unlike bulbs, which thrive deep underground, bearded iris rhizomes need a bit of sun and air to dry them out. Water consistently and deeply, especially during summer drought. Do not overwater irises too much moisture in the soil can cause the rhizomes to rot.Reblooming irises perform best if fertilized again after the first wave of flowering is finished. Fertilize in early spring, scratching an all-purpose fertilizer around the plants.In the early spring, remove winter mulch and any old foliage to allow for fresh, new growth.Do not mulch around the rhizome as this may encourage rot.Over a period of years, they will form clumps divide when blooms get smaller and vigor declines. Soak Siberian iris rhizomes in water overnight before planting, then set them 1 inch deep (2 inches, if the soil is sandy), 2 feet apart.Plant singly or in groups of three, 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on the fully grown plant’s size.Fill in the hole and firm it gently, leaving part of the rhizome and the foliage uncovered. Make a ridge of soil down the middle and place the rhizome on the ridge, spreading the roots down both sides. ![]()
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